Bushmanland is a poorly defined area, bounded roughly by the Namaqualand highlands in the west, the Orange River in the north, and the towns of Kenhardt, Van Wyksvlei, Calvinia and Loeriesfontein in the east and south. Most of the rain, unlike that in Namaqualand and the Cape Floral Kingdom, falls in summer. The best times of year for birding are the transitional seasons: bird activity is normally good in spring and autumn, and there is relief from the bitter nights of midwinter and the scorching heat of summer. Although many species here are nomadic and move around unpredictably in response to rain and seeding grasses, it is quite possible to find the majority during a short visit, using the sites described below.

Glancing at a map, you may be forgiven for thinking that this is a water-filled area, but all the ‘blue lakes’ shown are in fact relics of previous ages of plenty, and are today just shimmering, dusty expanses which hold water only in years of exceptional rainfall. Indeed, these promising blue patches are more suited for motor racing than any kind of aquatic activity — the parched and desolate expanse of Verneukpan near Kenhardt is rather improbably remembered as the site of Sir Malcolm Campbell’s 1929 attempt, in his Bluebird, to break the world land speed record.

Besides the overwhelming feeling of freedom these seemingly endless open spaces provide, there are few tourist attractions in Bushmanland. Yet, despite the diversity of endemics found here and the fact that the region is highly regarded by discerning birders, it has been poorly treated by bird-finding guides and almost all the information given here has never been published before.

Bushmanland can be conveniently combined with a Namaqualand loop (see p.97), or even a visit to the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park (p.107). Those with limited time can see all the Bushmanland specials in the vicinity of the desolate little town of Brandvlei (‘burning lake’), a mere seven hours’ drive from Cape Town. However, those with an affinity for huge, near-empty landscapes and desert birds will enjoy three to four days here.

One excellent circular route is along the N7 north from Cape Town to Vanrhynsdorp, and then on east to Calvinia and up to Brandvlei. Bird around Brandvlei for a full day before heading north to Kenhardt, with the option of including a Kalahari Gemsbok National Park (p.107) loop at this point. From Kenhardt, travel west to Pofadder and Aggenys, where you can easily spend a day birding. Leaving Bushmanland, proceed into Namaqualand (p.97), spending a day around Springbok, with an excursion to Port Nolloth. Travel south through Namaqualand, perhaps incorporating some West Coast birding (p.41) en route to Cape Town.

Much of Bushmanland is partitioned off as private sheep farms. Good birding can be had at the roadside, but please ask permission before exploring farms. Away from the main arteries of the N14 and R27, there are long, desolate sections of unsurfaced road. Beware of travelling too fast on these deceptively safe-looking stretches, and please remember never to brake hard, even if there is a bustard at the roadside! Make sure that your spare wheel is in working order; an emergency tyre repair kit is recommended. Take plenty of extra water as the summer days can be exhaustingly dehydrating. Warm clothes are essential in winter, when night temperatures regularly drop below freezing.