Swartberg
Pass:
For over a century, the 24-km length of the Swartberg Pass has
connected the Little Karoo ostrich capital of Oudtshoorn to
the placid Great Karoo town of Prince Albert. As you head north
from Oudtshoorn and the road begins to climb, there is a sudden
switch from arid scrub and ravine-side thicket to moist, mist-wreathed
mountain fynbos. The pass crests the Swartberg range at an altitude
of 1 436 m before dropping precipitously through a series of
dramatic switchbacks, ingeniously supported by dry-stone walls.
Becoming progressively more arid, the road emerges into the
Karoo proper through a kloof presided over by agonizingly contorted
rock layers folded by massive early geological upheavals.
To
reach the pass, take the R328 from Oudtshoorn, and follow
the signs. You might like to spend a moment investigating
the dry hillside scrub in the vicinity of the Cango Mountain
Resort turn-off (24 km north of Oudtshoorn) where, among others,
Layards Titbabbler and Fairy Flycatcher
may be found. By the time the pass proper begins (where the
road surface changes to gravel, 43 km north of Oudtshoorn),
the altitude has rapidly transformed the parched scrub into
moist, dense mountain fynbos. The distances given are measured
from the end of the tarred road at this point; those in brackets
are measured from the beginning of the tarred road on the
other side of the pass, 2 km from Prince Albert. At 0.5 (25.5)
km past the transition to gravel, a stream flanked by taller
vegetation passes under the road. This is an excellent site
for Protea
Canary (p.57*); look particularly in the tall streamside
growth, and in the adjacent stands of Waboom (Protea nitida,
a tall, greyish-leafed protea). Protea
Canary is in fact common in taller vegetation on both
sides of the pass. More conspicuous species to be found in
this vicinity are Cape
Sugarbird (p.33*), Orange-breasted
Sunbird (p.33*), Neddicky, Cape Bulbul,
Grassbird and Malachite Sunbird. Victorins
Warbler is very common in the impenetrable undergrowth,
supported by seeps, along the entire ascent of the pass (from
here to the summit); look for them at the streams at 3.8 (22.2),
5.0 (21.0) and 7.3 (18.7) km. As the road approaches its highest
altitude, the terrain becomes ever-rockier and cooler. The
rocky ridges to the east and west of the passs summit
at 9.2 (16.8) km (Die Top) are well worth a walk
in quest of Ground
Woodpecker (p.105*), Cape
Rockjumper (p.73*), Sentinel and Cape Rock
Thrushes and Cape
Siskin (p.33*)
North
of the summit, the landscape is noticeably drier, revealing
spectacular geological contortions. Keep an eye out for classic
mountain raptors such as Black and Booted Eagles,
Jackal Buzzard and Rock Kestrel. The road descends
through progressively more arid country and ultimately joins
a river in a dry gorge, at 22.2 (3.8) km. The hillside scrub
flanking it hosts such typically kloof-loving Karoo species
as Fairy Flycatcher, Layards Titbabbler
and, usually flying overhead, Pale-winged Starling.
At 25.7 (0.3) km, a picnic site lies on the left hand side
alongside a band of fearsomely thorned acacia trees. This
thicket offers Southern Tchagra, Pririt
Batis (p.85*), Namaqua
Warbler (p.85*) and Red-billed Firefinch, the
latter near the western limit of its range. From the junction
at 26.0 (0.0) km, the roads runs for 2 km through a broad
valley to the sleepy town of Prince Albert and the Great Karoo
beyond.
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