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cape birding route > birding spots > garden route & interior > swartberg pass
Swartberg Pass:

For over a century, the 24-km length of the Swartberg Pass has connected the Little Karoo ostrich capital of Oudtshoorn to the placid Great Karoo town of Prince Albert. As you head north from Oudtshoorn and the road begins to climb, there is a sudden switch from arid scrub and ravine-side thicket to moist, mist-wreathed mountain fynbos. The pass crests the Swartberg range at an altitude of 1 436 m before dropping precipitously through a series of dramatic switchbacks, ingeniously supported by dry-stone walls. Becoming progressively more arid, the road emerges into the Karoo proper through a kloof presided over by agonizingly contorted rock layers folded by massive early geological upheavals.

To reach the pass, take the R328 from Oudtshoorn, and follow the signs. You might like to spend a moment investigating the dry hillside scrub in the vicinity of the Cango Mountain Resort turn-off (24 km north of Oudtshoorn) where, among others, Layard’s Titbabbler and Fairy Flycatcher may be found. By the time the pass proper begins (where the road surface changes to gravel, 43 km north of Oudtshoorn), the altitude has rapidly transformed the parched scrub into moist, dense mountain fynbos. The distances given are measured from the end of the tarred road at this point; those in brackets are measured from the beginning of the tarred road on the other side of the pass, 2 km from Prince Albert. At 0.5 (25.5) km past the transition to gravel, a stream flanked by taller vegetation passes under the road. This is an excellent site for Protea Canary (p.57*); look particularly in the tall streamside growth, and in the adjacent stands of Waboom (Protea nitida, a tall, greyish-leafed protea). Protea Canary is in fact common in taller vegetation on both sides of the pass. More conspicuous species to be found in this vicinity are Cape Sugarbird (p.33*), Orange-breasted Sunbird (p.33*), Neddicky, Cape Bulbul, Grassbird and Malachite Sunbird. Victorin’s Warbler is very common in the impenetrable undergrowth, supported by seeps, along the entire ascent of the pass (from here to the summit); look for them at the streams at 3.8 (22.2), 5.0 (21.0) and 7.3 (18.7) km. As the road approaches its highest altitude, the terrain becomes ever-rockier and cooler. The rocky ridges to the east and west of the pass’s summit at 9.2 (16.8) km (‘Die Top’) are well worth a walk in quest of Ground Woodpecker (p.105*), Cape Rockjumper (p.73*), Sentinel and Cape Rock Thrushes and Cape Siskin (p.33*)

North of the summit, the landscape is noticeably drier, revealing spectacular geological contortions. Keep an eye out for classic mountain raptors such as Black and Booted Eagles, Jackal Buzzard and Rock Kestrel. The road descends through progressively more arid country and ultimately joins a river in a dry gorge, at 22.2 (3.8) km. The hillside scrub flanking it hosts such typically kloof-loving Karoo species as Fairy Flycatcher, Layard’s Titbabbler and, usually flying overhead, Pale-winged Starling. At 25.7 (0.3) km, a picnic site lies on the left hand side alongside a band of fearsomely thorned acacia trees. This thicket offers Southern Tchagra, Pririt Batis (p.85*), Namaqua Warbler (p.85*) and Red-billed Firefinch, the latter near the western limit of its range. From the junction at 26.0 (0.0) km, the roads runs for 2 km through a broad valley to the sleepy town of Prince Albert and the Great Karoo beyond.

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