Swellendam, straddling the N2 national road a two-and-a-half hour drive east of Cape Town, marks the westernmost occurrence of several bird species. It is also the third oldest town in South Africa, and consequently boasts numerous fine Cape Dutch buildings. Rather improbably, it was the capital city of a mini-republic for three heady months in 1795, when its citizens declared independence and appointed a president! The municipal campsite in Swellendam, in addition to offering agreeable camping and affordable cottage accommodation, is a good site for several scarce species. The small path that leads through the dense riparian vegetation lining the flanking stream may yield Tambourine Dove, Brown-hooded Kingfisher and Olive Woodpecker. Flocks of Swee Waxbill scatter autumn-leaf-like at the campsite edges. Grey-headed Sparrow, at the limit of its range, can be found in the trees around the cottages, where a pair of Wood Owls call nightly.